'The 2008 Baroli have turned out better than I originally expected...the best 2008s are thrilling.’ Antonio Galloni
In any wine region, styles shift and new interpretations are formed, but often there is one critical reference point for all that is great about the traditional style upon which a region initially founded its reputation.
For Piemonte and, more accurately, for Barolo, it is the estate of Giacomo Conterno which, despite the passage of time, remains reassuringly true to its roots. Roberto Conterno has opted to follow the path laid out by his father Giovanni and grandfather Giacomo and little has changed here in decades. What does traditional winemaking mean with regard to Barolo? Invariably it means a lengthy maceration period and significant time in large oak. At Conterno, the top wine ‘Monfortino’ still patiently rests for seven years in cask before release!
This is undoubtedly the most revered wine from the estate of which the inaugural release was pre-1920, with 1924 representing the first commercial release. In the beginning, the wine was made from purchased fruit from both Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga. Since 1978, it has been produced from one single 14 hectare vineyard in Serralunga and astonishingly that first vintage is still regarded as one of the finest Barolo ever made.
What I find fascinating is that Monfortino is a selection, made from the best fruit produced from the Cascina Francia vineyard. However, an additional wine bearing the name of the vineyard, Cascina Francia, is also produced in most years (NB there are years when Monfortino is not made, such as in 2007 and 2009). My first recollection of the Cascina Francia was the 1998 vintage; given it was such a complex wine, I struggled to comprehend that this was not the leading wine from the estate. To date, I am not sure I have ever tasted an example of the leading wine, Monfortino that was ready to be consumed. It is a powerful, structured, intense wine that, even after an extended period in cask, needs the patience of saint before it is mature enough to be broached. The Cascina Francia is invariably more forthcoming, it will normally hit its straps far earlier and in some vintages is capable of running its big brother close in terms of quality. This is no throw away statement given that the Monfortino often exceeds £5500 per case of 12 bottles while the relatively humble Cascina Francia is available just over at just over £1000 per case of 12 bottles in bond.
Antonio Galloni recently held a dinner in London at Maze where he tasted 16 vintages of Monfortino. On the night, three received 100 points, one received a score of 99, and five wines scored 98. He has not yet updated his main notes online. I do wonder how Cascina Francia would have faired across a similar run of vintages?
The chart below is fascinating as it compares both scores and prices. Please note that the prices shown are per dozen for both Monfortino and Cascina Francia in a selection of vintages...There is unerring consistency either side of the chart.
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Monfortino
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Cascina Francia
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2008
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96-98+
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not released yet
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95+
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£ 1,100
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2004
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100
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£ 6,000
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97
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£ 1,450
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2001
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99
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£ 5,800
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96
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£ 2,270
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1990
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98
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£ 7,800
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98
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£ 3,800
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I am pleased to offer a parcel from the highly successful 2008 vintage in six bottle cases as follows.
2008 Barolo, Cascina Francia, Giacomo Conterno
£550 per 6 bottles in bond (Drink 2019-2030).
I have included two notes from Antonio Galloni below for reference.
95+, Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
Tasted in October 2012
The 2008 Barolo Cascina Francia possesses gorgeous inner perfume, layers of sublime fruit and fabulous overall balance. Plums, dark cherries and licorice are followed by darker notes of graphite and tar as the wine opens up in the glass. Today, the 2008 is much less expressive than it has been the many times I have tasted it from barrel. It will be interesting to see how the 2008 develops and whether it puts on weight or remains more of a mid-weight, gracious Barolo. Either way, it is fabulous.
(94-96), Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
Tasted in April 2012
The 2008 Barolo Cascina Francia is all understatement and class. Silky, impeccable tannins support expressive red berries, flowers, mint and sweet spices. The 2008 is an intensely perfumed Cascina Francia that impresses for the purity of its fruit and its phenomenal overall balance.