I can confess that I was a little sceptical; I have tasted a fair few South African Chardonnay that have simply lacked sophistication or verve and I fully expected the first vintage of Richard’s Elgin Chardonnay to show promise but fail to impress. How wrong could I be? It is staggering to think that this is his first vintage, given that invariably fine tuning of techniques occurs over the first few years before a new estate finds its path. It is even more staggering to say that I don’t believe I have tasted a finer South African Chardonnay. The rational side of my brain (yes, there is one, honestly) kept telling me that it would be bizarre for the first vintage of a new wine to excel in this way, but it is a clear success. I was reassured to learn that I had not lost the plot as I found out that John Platter, the leading authority on South African wine and author of Platter’s Guide, wasted no time in giving the very same vintage of Richard’s wine a five star rating (which is as high as his scoring scheme goes).
So, what is the secret? I think part of it lies in the climate and, as Richard’s strapline on some marketing material would have it, ‘Elgin is a cooler place to be!’. Situated to the west of the Cape in the coolest part of South Africa at a relatively high altitude and benefitting from the moderating effects of the ocean, you find Elgin and the five individual vineyards from which Richard sources his fruit. This climate results in greater precision, focus, clarity of flavours and more elevated natural acidity. There is a distinctly Burgundian feel to the wine which appeals to a palate like mine that has been schooled on Burgundy from the early days. The stylistic influence is intentional; Richard’s vineyards are planted with Burgundian Chardonnay clones and he employs the barrels of Burgundian coopers for his wines.
Vicki met Richard when she was over in South Africa last year; she tells me he knows exactly what he is about. A very driven character – a perfectionist – his aim is to produce great Chardonnay and he is off to a hugely impressive start with the 2012 vintage of his Elgin Chardonnay (of which just 500 cases were made).
Richard describes 2012 as a ‘stand out vintage’ for Elgin, as the cool spring gave way to a warm growing season. The advantage of growing in Elgin compared to much of the rest of the Cape, particularly for varieties such Chardonnay, is that in such a warm climate the cooler nights are allow the vines to rest, preserving the natural acidity levels and enhancing the mineral quality.
2012 Elgin Chardonnay, Richard Kershaw @ £165 per 12 bottles in bond
Pale gold in the glass, the aromas capture characters of toasted nuts, wet stone, citrus fruits and pear. There is also a complex leesy note, that mixes with smoky, barrel-derived notes. There is ample fruit on the palate, juicy fresh citrus and succulent melon – with a tauter, more precise impression than is often found on the Cape. It takes a little air to open out fully, with smoky rich, ripe fruit characters and a gently mineral undertow. The sense of harmony is what strikes me most of all coupled with an uncommon clarity and acidity-driven finish. This is on song straight out the traps and is drinking superbly but would undoubtedly hold for 2 to 3 years, but there is little reason to hold off. A superb debut vintage from a winemaker who looks set to make a greater impression.