Condrieu is interesting appellation and a tiny one at that. Nestled just south of Côte-Rôtie in the Northern Rhône, it is staggering to think that, in terms of area under vine, the entire appellation is barely two and a half times the size of the vineyards of Château Lafite-Rothschild. To be frank, it is not an appellation that Simon follows from year to year as the demand is not there to warrant an annual offer – nor perhaps is the style or quality.
Viognier, the grape responsible for all Condrieu, is a taxing one to cultivate successfully. Yields are invariably very low and need to be in order to deliver good concentration – I have certainly tried my fair share of diffuse, dilute Condrieu over the years. I believe the variety shows best in fine but not hot vintages as viognier is low in acidity and some vintages can leave an already soft style wine almost devoid of energy. So fickle it may be yet, when it is on song, it is stunning. High quality examples will feature juicy characters of soft white peach, apricot, floral notes as well as creamy and mineral nuances on the palate with a layered, dense mouthfeel and a gentle citrus tang on the finish. Condrieu are generally best consumed relatively young as the acidity is not present to permit longer-term ageing and they depend on their aromatics for a great deal of their character.
One of the finest examples that I have come across is produced by Philippe and Marcel Guigal under the cuvée name 'La Doriane.' It is a blend of fruit from four separate parcels of steeply terraced vineyard, namely Côte Chatillon, Colombier, Volan and, perhaps the most famous of the set, Coteau de Chéry.
In great years La Doriane reveals sufficient lift to offset the beautifully complex fruit and 2012 is certainly shaping up to impress. Please see the note below from Jeb Dunnuck on Robert Parker’s website, The Wine Advocate.
2012 Condrieu, La Doriane, Guigal
£480 per twelve bottles in bond
98 points, Jeb Dunnuch, The Wine Advocate
Even better and a monumental effort, the 2012 Condrieu La Doriane shows the freshness and purity of the vintage, with thrilling minerality that gives lift to stone fruits, citrus, marmalade and assorted floral nuances. Medium to full-bodied, laser-focused and ultra-precise, yet still fantastically textured and long, this is blockbuster stuff that flirts with perfection and should not be missed. Drink 2016 to 2020