Atlas' buyer, Vicki Stephens-Clarkson, happened upon Caiarossa during her visit to Tuscany a few weeks back. It was actually a contact at Ornellaia who steered Vicki towards this smart, well-priced Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A good turn indeed, as a recent tasting of their 2009s has proved.
Caiarossa (Andrew Caslin says it would sell for more if the name ended in ‘aia’!) is situated in Val di Cecina, which lies just to the north of Bolgheri. Val di Cecina is a beautiful region right on the coastal line, with vineyards at altitudes of 150/250 metres above sea level. Founded in 1998, the estate was acquired in 2004 by Eric Albada Jelgersma, a Dutch entrepreneur, who is the owner of Château Giscours and du Tertre in Margaux and has proven a clever move in diversification.
We have had the opportunity to taste several vintages from this property and the progression is certainly clear, culminating in a clearly successful 2009 vintage which repays Mr Jelgersma’s interest. American wine critic James Suckling shares our enthusiasm stating that the 2009 is ‘the best ever’ from this estate and awarded it 95 points.
While the earlier vintages showed well enough to me, it is the generosity and purity of the 2009 that really enhances the standing of this wine. The 2009 vintage was shaped by a hot summer (August was hotter than the seasonal average), followed by cooler conditions from early September which allowed the fruit to be harvested slowly and at full ripeness. I much prefer this fuller nature than the more leaner accent of the 2008s I have tasted.
The harvest period is incredibly complicated at Caiarossa on account of the numerous grape varieties that feature in the blend, namely Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Petit Verdot, Syrah and Alicante. It is little wonder that harvest spanned from the end of August until the beginning of October given this roll-call of varieties and I hate to think how long the blending sessions must have lasted to arrive at the definitive blend!
Caiarossa IGT Toscana 2009
£155 per six bottles in bond
Deep in the glass, the nose reveals fresh, almost minty, pure berry and stone fruit, with the merest hint of background toast. What impresses most is the seamless, plush texture on the palate. This is an immediately expressive blend revealing a complex blend of mint, leafy blackcurrant, damson backed by a fine mineral vein. Self-evidently a ripe style, the 2009 still retains poise and doesn’t suggest that it is the product of a hot vintage. The structure gradually asserts, but not in such a way as to preclude enjoyment of a young wine. The notes of dark berry and spice on the finish reveal the hand of Petit Verdot and Syrah in wine which is largely dominated by the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. An individual wine which suggests this is an estate to watch. Drink 2013-2019
Please let us know at your earliest convenience of your interest.