While Simon has a strong interest in the wines of the Rhône valley, he seldom finds white southern Rhône styles that impress. Once Simon is the south, it is red that unsurprisingly dominates his interest almost without exception.
The problem for me with southern Rhône whites is the reliance on Grenache Blanc, which can all too easily loose acidity and lead to bland results. If harvested too early to preserve acidity, it can seem diffuse and herbal. Over the years, however, I have tasted a number of whites based on or entirely Roussanne that stand out from the pack. This includes 2013 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Roussanne Vieilles Vignes which I am offering at £350 per 6 in bond.
Roussanne is something else altogether. It is one of the six permissible white grapes that can be employed in a Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend. Its name comes from the reddish hue that the skins take on when the variety is fully ripe. Aromatically, it has a delicate flowery, honey-scented character. Although dependent on site, it retains acidity well in warmer climates and produces wines with a juicy, ripe fruit of pear, greengage, and almost peachy fruit notes. In the very best examples, there is often an impressive density which is offset by a mineral tang to the finish. They can be enjoyed young when they impress with abundant, juicy fruits and also in age when they develop a nuttier, more complex style.
The issue with southern Rhône Roussanne is that there are very few examples available; in short, it is a fascinating rarity. I have tasted a good example from Grand Veneur on several occasions as well as an interesting example from Château Sixtine, but none have come close to the unerring quality of the Roussanne Vieilles Vignes from Château de Beaucastel.
This wine comes from a three hectare (7 acre) block of vines where the average age is approaching 75 years. Crucially, the vineyard is rich in fossilised marine deposits with the classic galets roulées (pudding stones) of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to the surface. This terroir not only brings out an unmistakable mineral edge in the wines, but the galets aid ripeness notably in cool years by reflecting heat back onto the vines. Half of the crop is vinified in oak, half in stainless steel and the same principle applies to the ageing in the cellars which runs for eight months.
The 2013 vintage has shaped some fascinating whites on account of a cooler, longer growing season resulting in better acidities than the norm, and slightly lower alcohol levels, too. As Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes commented a while back, a little Burgundian refinement has come to Châteauneuf. Take a look at Jeb Dunnuck’s review on Robert Parker’s website below – this is a vintage well worth acquiring.
2013 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Roussanne Vieilles Vignes
97 points, Jeb Dunnuck, erobertparker.com
£350 per 6 in bond
Similar in color to the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is deeper and richer, with more viscosity, glycerin and minerality. Loaded with notes of buttered citrus, flowers, orange marmalade and crushed-rock nuances, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied power, juicy, lively acidity and terrific length. Like the classic white, this does not go through malolactic fermentation, but sees slightly more oak (some new) in its élevage, which always gives it slightly more richness, as well as hints of vanilla in its youth. It’s unquestionably the greatest white wine coming from the Southern Rhône, and while I prefer to drink it in its first 4-6 years, it can evolve for decades. Drink 2014-2023+