Denis Durantou, of L’Eglise-Clinet fame, continues to conjure up successes from humble appellations and, as an affordable 2012 that punches over its weight, the Cruzelles should not be ignored.
And Pontet-Canet? Alfred Tesseron intimated while we visited Bordeaux last month that, considering the vintage, pricing would be sensible and his 2012 is down 9% from last year’s release. Although in isolation this may not sound like a significant enough drop, if you consider that it is a property on the up, as witnessed by the recent successes of the last five vintages, then I think it can be argued that it is reasonable. The wine certainly did not disappoint us this year.
2012 Ch. Les Cruzelles, Lalande de Pomerol
£150 per twelve bottles in bond
£165 per six magnums in bond
Comprising 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, juicy damson fruit is expressed on the nose, and is echoed on the palate which is immediately appealing, packed with sweet, ripe stone fruit. In short, this is a terrific Cruzelles. There is a lush core to this wine, which signals a particular success. Tauter to the finish, as notes gravelly, more mineral nuances emerge. The gravelly impression is subtle, lending direction to floral-edged, vibrant Merlot fruit. Another Denis Durantou lesson in restrained, intelligent wine-making. While his stable of more humble, properties excelled this vintage – this is clearly the stand-out. Drink 2014-2019
2012 Ch. Pontet-Canet
£690 per twelve bottles in bond
A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Monsieur Tesseron’s renowned obsession with detail found plenty of scope in 2012 – this was after all a vintage where the right choices paid dividends. Clearly a more forward and elegant style of Pontet-Canet than we have tasted in recent vintages, but equally a wine which is ahead of the Chateau’s achievements in 2008. The nose is dominated by cassis and the tell-tale violet scents that are so typically Pontet. Soft-skinned, dark berry fruits are to the fore on the palate too, which captures greater depth and intensity than many Left Bank wines this vintage. The tannins are sleek and unobtrusive, allowing a fine expression of fruit even at an early stage. A certain success in the vintage context and a wine that repays Monsieur Tesseron’s on-going commitment to quality. Drink 2014-2029
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