Modern Chablis captures a whole host of different styles today but time and again, we return to the most classical interpretation of these wines, preferring the clean-cut raciness of the wines.
Over the past forty years, Domaine Louis Michel have carved out an enviable reputation for quality by producing very fine, age-worthy Chablis with no imprint of oak. Today, the domaine is in the hands of sixth generation, Guillaume Michel. In the past, the Michel family always maintained that barrels were only to be used for fermentation and ageing the wine and, as it was old oak, the barrels were not used to impart any toasty oak or woody characters per se.
Today, some leading domaines choose to influence their wines by employing oak, but the Michel family cannot understand why anyone would want to mask the inherent aroma and flavour profile of true Chablis. It is these differences in approach that render wines of Chablis so fascinating as there are superb examples from each school of thought.
A key point in the success of Domaine Michel is that that the vineyards they own incorporate a high percentage of Crus. At 16 hectares, they have double the surface area in Premier and Grands Cru that they have in basic Chablis and Petit Chablis. After tasting extensively in both France and the UK, we have selected three wines from their impressive range and we are the first to offer these wines in the UK.
The Louis Michel wines reflect both the innate quality of this cool-climate and the Chardonnay variety, but there is much more that is revealed besides; the individual character traits of the vineyards are displayed with terrific clarity. The Premier Cru of Fourchaume and Montée de Tonnerre frame the steep slope at the top (the North) and bottom of the famed Grand Cru slopes respectively, and are as different as night and day. Montée de Tonnerre is always a linear, elegant example, with plenty of mineral race and tautness to its structure, with white flowers and gentle citrus fruit to refresh and lengthen the palate, Fourchaume is closer to Grand Cru in stature, altogether fuller, more mouth filling with a more open character than the Tonnerre, but with plenty of direction and matiere.
We have shown the notes from Antonio Galloni below.
Louis Michel, Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2012
£110 per six bottles in bond
Galloni (92-94) The 2012 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is wonderfully alive in the glass. Crystalline, precise and drop-dead gorgeous, the 2012 captures the best qualities of the year. Sweet floral notes add a sense of aiGalloni (92-94) The 2012 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is wonderfully alive in the glass. Crystalline, precise and drop-dead gorgeous, the 2012 captures the best qualities of the year. Sweet floral notes add a sense of airiness to the 2012 that is hugely appealing, while the intense minerality kicks in on the delicate, gracious finish. riness to the 2012 that is hugely appealing, while the intense minerality kicks in on the delicate, gracious finish.
Louis Michel, Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaumes 2012
£120 per six bottles in bond
Galloni (91-93): An explosive, mineral-infused wine, the 2012 Chablis Fourchaume literally bursts from the glass with serious intensity, power and depth. The style is focused and energetic, but backed up with serious stuffing. There is a lot to look forward to here. Readers should note that this wine is sold as Vaulorent in France and Fourchaume in all other markets. The wine is the same.
Louis Michel, Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2012
£160 per six bottles in bond
Galloni (93-94) Honey, almonds, Chamomile and peach scents inform the 2012 Chablis Vaudesir. A rich, textured wine, the 2012 stands out for its pure volume and depth. Layers of fruit flow through to the effortless, totally inviting finish. I imagine the 2012 will drink well relatively early.