Offers of 2010 Brunello abound, as the wine trade rushes to make the most of a fine vintage for the Montalcino region. As Simon mentioned in our Brunello 2010 offer, the vintage in Montalcino is not one all-round success. Winemaking style and vineyard location vary across the region giving rise to dramatically different results. Generalisations are therefore tricky at best.
'The single most important yet under the radar estate in all of Montalcino' – Antonio Galloni
Having tasted various examples – not all of which we opted to purchase – I was a touch sceptical of the vast array of lofty scores awarded to numerous Brunello by James Suckling in particular. It has been interesting to read the recent comments of Antonio Galloni, our preferred Italian wine critic, and also to reference those comments of Monica Larner, writing on Robert Parker’s website.
One estate that has clearly excelled in the 2010 vintage is Alessandro Mori’s Il Marroneto. This estate has received considerable praise over the last few vintages and is today cementing its place among the leading producers of Montalcino. The wines here are traditional in style and seek to highlight the virtues of Sangiovese in a remarkably pure form. These wines are the antithesis of the intense, heady, almost thick Brunello that appeal to certain critics. The draw here is a mineral-infused fruit, tautness of structure and clarity of flavour, which to my palate is a recipe for success.
The estate’s northerly location within the region tends to favour greater precision and acidity, particularly given the altitude of 350+ metres over sea level. The vineyards, which are managed organically, have achieved good maturity, having been planted in the late 1970s and early 1980s. As highlighted, the winemaking is traditional; large old oak barrels are employed for the wine’s ageing so that the purity of Sangiovese shines through clearly, unobscured by new oak influences.
Cooler vineyard sites – such as those of Il Marroneto – do lead to difficulties in achieving balanced Sangiovese in tricky vintages, but in years such as 2010, where there is greater concentration of fruit, it is well worth taking advantage. Given Il Marroneto’s ‘off the radar’ status, it presents something of a bargain. As wine critic Ian D’Agata (formerly of Stephen Tanzer’s IWC, now writing on Vinous Media) would have it, ‘you'll be hard-pressed to find more vibrant, precise and pure examples of mono-varietal Sangiovese anywhere in Italy.’ He goes on to draw stylistic comparisons to the wines of Biondi-Santi – fine praise indeed...
2010 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Marroneto
Drink from 2017 to 2030
95 points, Antonio Galloni
Dark red cherries, mint, sage, tobacco, licorice and new leather blossom in Il Marroneto's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. Savory and lifted in the glass, the 2010 possesses stunning overall balance and tons of nuance. The tannins are firm and incisive, yet also remarkably polished. Ideally, readers should cellar the 2010 for at least a few years, but it is going to be very hard to resist the temptation of drinking the 2010 young.
95 points, Monica Larner
Beautifully ripe and intense, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino never feels overdone or too heavy. In fact, it treads with the lightest of footprints imparting delicate tones of rose petal, forest berry, white cherry, balsam herb and sweet almond as it flutters over the senses. The main message here is elegance and this wine is profoundly eloquent on the subject. The mouthfeel is tight silky and enduring. Delicate mineral notes give focus and definition to the finish. This is a classic Brunello from an iconic vintage.