Simon had the chance to taste the new release, the 2002 vintage, which exceeded expectations as his note below reveals.
Pol Roger is certainly one of my preferred Champagne houses. The wines are characterised as being pristine, invariably at the drier end of the spectrum, with a fine life-giving – yet never nervy – acidity. As one of my favoured Champagnes, and a champagne that I have advised clients on over the years, I get the opportunity to taste it frequently! The non-vintage is as consistent as any of the prominent marques. I tasted the 1996 recently which continues to impress me albeit with a more marked vein of acidity than is normally the case. The 2000 from jeroboam was a surprise, as this is often an overlooked vintage – a warmer year that delivered a ripe but more mellow style. On this occasion it shone, drinking superbly at its current maturity.
Pol Roger Vintage Reserve 2002
£220 per six bottles in bond
Offering appealing aromas of ripe fruit; almost hints of lemon, citrus oils and a distinct mineral nuance, the 2002 Pol Roger is an exercise in poise with weight of fruit and acidity in near perfect balance. It retains that pristine quality that singles out Pol’s style yet gives the impression of a more vinous Champagne than the norm. The acidity underscores the palate beautifully – there is nothing edgy about it. Indeed, there is a ripe nature to the acidity this year, no doubt on account of near ideal harvest period. A very harmonious, complete style, with a gentle mousse and long, long, persistent finish. There is plenty of potential here and I fully echo various critics’ comments that this is possibly the finest vintage Pol Roger since the impressive 1982. Drink 2014-2030