I have been a great fan of the Champagnes of De Sousa for some time now, ever since I first encountered a bottle of Caudalies in an outstanding Japanese restaurant in the Burgundian town of Beaune. I was always intrigued by a comment from respected Champagne critic, Peter Liem of champagneguide.net, who once wrote ‘It’s no accident that De Sousa is found in many of France’s best restaurants’. I can’t say I have dined in a sufficient number of France’s finest restaurants to vouch for de Sousa’s availability (yet), but the quality of these exceptional Champagnes relative to the value is an equation that is certainly in the consumer’s favour. Here we offer the NV ‘3A’, Grand Cru Extra Brut at £195 per 6 bottle case in bond and NV ‘Mycorhize’, Grand Cru Extra Brut at £220 per 6 bottle case in bond.
The De Sousa family (of Portuguese descent) have been in Avize for three generations and the house of De Sousa & Fils was founded in 1986 by Erick and Michelle. The scale is modest; there are just 9.5 hectares, and production barely exceeds 6,000 cases from their 42 different vineyard parcels across the villages of Avize, Ay, Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil sur Oger and Oger. The vast majority of their vines are low yielding, given they were planted more than 45 years ago, and they have cultivated their vineyards organically since 1989. In 1999, De Sousa converted to biodynamic viticulture which – if anything – has lowered yields even further. You quickly get the impression that everything at De Sousa is about quality over quantity.
I am pleased to release our 2018 allocation of two Champagnes from De Sousa; firstly, the aptly-named ‘3A’, which is a blend of Grand Cru fruit from Avize, Abonnay and Ay, and secondly the perhaps obscurely-named ‘Mycorhize’, which we offer here for the first time. This is a limited cuvée of just 1212 bottles per annum. The name relates to the fact that this cuvée is made from fruit grown biodynamically on the estate. ‘Mycorhize’ (pronounced ‘me-cor-reeze’) is a term used to describe the close, symbiotic relationship between the roots of the vine and the fungi that inhabit the area around the root zone. Proponents of biodynamic viticulture believe that their approach leads to healthier vines with deeper roots that yield higher quality fruit. Whether or not you believe or understand biodynamics, it does mean than growers have to pre-empt; they are unable to react instantaneously as they might in conventional viticulture and apply chemicals to hold a problem at bay. And it is certain that greater attentiveness undoubtedly leads to fine wines.
These two Champagnes are truly exceptional and should easily displace non-vintage Grande Marques from your cellar, portfolio, eurocaves and fridges. I struggle to understand why there is a need to pay up for a lesser Champagne, made in near industrial quantities, sourced from Premier rather than Grand Cru vineyards, when such great growers Champagnes are available.
NV ‘3A’, Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne De Sousa
£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
First the technical bit: This aptly-named cuvée comprises a blend of 50% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Avize, raised in oak, 25% Grand Cru Pinot Noir from Ay and 25% from Ambonnay. These are three of finest terroirs in Champagne. The dosage is 3 grams per litre.
A near-perfect blend of components, 3A shows what great quality is on show at De Sousa. Gently scented orchard fruits meld with discreet hints of red berry on the nose. The taut palate has race and drive, but shows the hallmark of all De Sousa Champagnes; namely that softness of texture and understated weight. There is a firm, mineral vein that lends backbone and complexity here to an impressive Champagne of great purity. It is the clarity of expression and the outstanding persistence that impresses so much here. Outstanding. (SL) Drink 2018-2024.
NV ‘Mycorhize’, Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne de Sousa
£220 per 6 bottle case in bond
First the technical bit: Taken from old Grand Cru plots of Chardonnay across De Sousa’s holdings, this wine is aged sur latte for three years before being disgorged. The base wine is fermented in 225 litre French oak barriques and the dosage is just 3 grams per litre.
Immediately this Champagne reveals notes of white flower, freshly-baked patisserie and gentle vanilla pod on the nose, all backed by juicy pear and apple fruit. The purity of this style is captivating; there is such an elegant mousse here, soft layers of caressing fruit that flow across the palate. There is a markedly mineral vein here, flinty, chalky notes adding complexity. It has a canny concentration that gradually builds and then reasserts with an almost citrusy acidity on the finish. Such persistence – this is a gem of a Champagne. (SL) Drink 2018-2024.
As mentioned, both of these Champagnes are released in limited quantities on an annual; basis so please do not delay if you are tempted to follow my advice.