It is odd to think that there are still appellations in Burgundy that remain relatively overlooked despite the considerable global attention that is fixated on all things Burgundian. Here Simon offers an incredibly well-priced parcel of 2012 Pernand-Vergelesses, En Caradeux fromPierre-Yves Colin-Morey, offered here at £95 per 6 bottle case in bond.
Pernand-Vergelesses is one of the three villages to share the Grand Cru vineyards of Corton and Corton-Charlemagne; it is the western slope of the hill of Corton which falls into Pernand.
Of the three villages, Pernand-Vergelesses and Ladoix-Serrigny struggle for a sense of identity and are not names that are easily recognised by clients, and yet – as with any unfamiliar name – there is value to be found here. The finest white wine vineyards of Pernand-Vergelesses are found to the north-east of the village on a hill that faces the hill of Corton. It is here that the vineyard of En Caradeux is located.
For many, the whites of Pernand-Vergelesses have been considered akin to poor man’s Corton-Charlemagne; the best examples offer generous fruit, not lacking in richness with a fine texture and enlivening note of acidity. Taking just a couple of years to get into their stride, they can invariably be consumed over a four or five year period.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s impressive 2012 vintage certainly falls in to this category. Pierre-Yves is the eldest son of Marc Colin and worked at the family domaine up until 2005. With his wife, Caroline Morey, he had already established a négoçiant business under the name Colin-Morey by the time he left in 2005. At which point he took with him six hectares of vineyard from the family domaine. However, he makes no distinction on the labels between wines from his own vineyards or wines made from purchased grapes. An intelligent winemaker, Pierre-Yves has rapidly established himself among the finest white winemakers of the Côte d’Or – no mean feat in under a decade.
In 2013 he was described as ‘The New Master of Affordable White Burgundy’ in the Wall Street Journal. Antonio Galloni has described him as ‘one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers’ and Allen Meadows of Burghound states that ‘the quality is such, they absolutely deserve a place in your cellars if you can find them.’ Clearly Pierre-Yves isn’t short of plaudits nor is he lacking in winemaking talent. What is perhaps most refreshing about this producer is the quality shown by its most modest wines - unusual in a region in which prices can escalate rapidly. Please find my tasting note below.
2012 Pernand-Vergelesses, En Caradeux, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
£95 per 6 bottle case in bond
Pale in hue, the aromas offer zesty citrus and peach fruits, slightly floral with subtle smoky hints. The palate is really well-balanced with a lively fruit, leaning more towards yellow stone fruit with hints of spice. It finishes with an enlivening note of acidity and a subtle, smoky mineral quality. An impressive example. Drinking 2015-2019. (SL)
You may not know much about Pernand-Vergelesses, but this humble white Burgundy will surely impress.
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