Simon is not talking about the Uruguayan centre-forward with a tendency to bite his opponents. Rather, he am talking about a single-vineyard Argentinian Malbec from leading producer Trapiche which we tasted last week. Given the name, the number of puns and jokes that have circulated our office have been innumerable. ‘Liverpool aren’t the only people selling Suarez this summer’, ‘a wine with plenty of bite’ and on and on they went…We are sure to hear more in response to this offer if we know our audience! Perhaps we will award a prize to the funniest response we receive – you never know.
The name aside, this is a really interesting wine from a producer who has become synonymous with very fine Malbec. Traditionally grown in Bordeaux and further south into the south-western French area of Cahors, it is the grape variety that firmly put Argentina on the map. The Argentinian style has formed an incredibly strong, dependable category given that the wines offer bold juicy-natured fruit, good concentration and freshness. There is, however, more to the variety than its ability to deliver reliable bottles to supermarket shelves. Given the right site and in the right hands, Malbec is capable of producing head-turning styles offering true complexity and poise – particularly when grown in the higher altitude vineyards of Mendoza in the Andes foothills.
Trapiche is an old, established producer, founded in 1883. I can recall my first taste of Argentinian Malbec coming from a bottle of Trapiche, back before Argentina was really recognised as a producer on the global stage. Today the wines of Trapiche are very highly regarded, partly on account of the skill of their chief winemaker, Daniel Pi. Trapiche has led the way in terms of quality improvements in Argentina; they are credited with introducing French vine stock to the country, pioneering the use of French oak barrels and focusing on a single vineyard approach.The size and influence of Trapiche is considerable and, with 1200 hectares of their own vineyards and relationships with 100 of the best growers across the country, it is easy to understand just how Trapiche are able to produce Malbec that offers quality up and down the scale.
Every year, the team at Trapiche select the three most impressive Malbec from across their holdings and bottle them as Single Vineyard wines. All three are aged for 18 months in French oak barrels before resting in their cellars for a further year prior to release. Having tasted all three of the 2010s last week, it was the wine from the Suarez Lastra family that stood out for us. This example comes from the highly-regarded district of La Consulta, just to the south of Mendoza. As mentioned, the vineyards lie in the foothills of the Andes, at a staggering height of 1070 metres above sea level. There are at least two keys benefits to growing vines at such an altitude. Firstly, the quality of the light is very different, with greater UV intensity creating thicker skins and leading to deeper, darker fruit than would be the case at a lower altitude. Secondly, there is dramatic difference in day and night temperatures which is crucial in very warm growing areas. This allows the vines some respite at night and aids them in capturing the gentle floral aromatics and freshness that great Malbec can deliver.
This particular vintage reveals a suitably intense, deep purplish colour with fragrant aromas of spice, cherries and black fruits on the nose, alongside more complex notes of violets and dark chocolate. The palate is packed with juicy damson and red plum fruit as well as fresh dark cherry; the tannins are veiled by the expression of fruit and are barely perceptible. As expected of Argentinian Malbec, this is a full-bodied wine with ripe, generous fruit, a deft touch from a talented winemaker and the moderating influence of the site lend this Malbec a lifted perfume, notes of complexity and, above all, a vital freshness that lingers long into the finish. It might be interesting to see how this fares with time, but it is certainly drinking now until a cautious 2020.
Trapiche Single Vineyard Malbec, Finca Suarez Lastra 2010
£125 per 6 bottles under bond
James Suckling is one of the few prominent journalists to have tasted this particular wine and he saw fit to award 95 points.
James Suckling
95 points
Aromas of blackberries, iron and rust follow through to a full body, fine tannins and a juicy and minerally aftertaste. A beautiful red. Wonderful finish. It's all about harmony here. Drink now.