Tua Rita, Redigaffi 2012

One area that has drawn increasing attention in the market is Tuscany and not just for Sassicaia and Ornellaia – interest has broadened far beyond these two mainstays. This has been driven by a search for value and Italy in general has always had plenty to offer in this respect. Simon see much value in buying these leading examples early and tucking them away to quietly mature as securing stocks is likely to become more tricky in the next few years.

We have just secured a parcel of the 2012 Redigaffi, Tua Rita at £680 per 6 bottle case in bond. I have drawn your attention to the wines of Tua Rita previously, but not yet to their flagship wine, Redigaffi. I have been a fan of this particular wine for some time; this is a pure Merlot that can rival truly great Pomerol and yet has an individual, slightly more exotic style of its own.  Please see below for the abridged version of the estates history and rise to acclaim.
 
When Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti made the decision to purchase land in the Val di Cornia to the southern end of Bolgheri, they could never have envisaged how far this estate was to climb in people’s estimations.  The pair had stumbled across an outstanding vineyard, with soils rich in clay and silt perfectly suited to the Bordelais varietals, namely Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  So successful were their initial plantings that before Tua Rita bottled their own wines, they sold their fruit to Sassicaia. There was quite clearly huge, raw potential here from an early stage. While Tua Rita enjoyed some considerable critical acclaim during the early and mid-90s, it was the 1997 vintage of their Redigaffi (100% Merlot) that made the world of wine stand up and take note.  American critic James Suckling awarded it a perfect score of 100, which was then followed by a further perfect-100 from Parker for the 2000. An impressive run for an estate that was only founded in 1984, to say the least. With each of these Tuscan success stories, it is easy to forget how short their history actually is…the first commercial release of the ground-breaking Sassicaia took place in 1971!
 
Merlot is a notable success in areas of Tuscany. The climate and soils of specific areas enable Tuscan Merlot to rival the best in the world. James Suckling commented as follows in November 2013 on Hong Kong Tatler’s website in an article entitled ‘Italian Merlot on a High’:
 
Indeed, no other country except Italy can compete with Bordeaux’s Pomerol, the holy grail of the grape. Most merlot in the world – regardless if it’s from California, Chile, Australia or Spain – produces reds that are fruity and enjoyable, but which lack sophistication or complexity.
 
The appeal of the Super Tuscan category is now extending into new markets. Demand from the home market is strong, as are exports to the USA and the UK, while a surge of interest has been felt in Asia where Italy has certainly consolidated  its position. The slightly more forward drinking nature of many Super Tuscans, as well as more reasonable release pricing, have enticed a nascent Asian market to follow these wines.
 
As the table below demonstrates, Redigaffi is incredibly consistent today. James Suckling clearly has a soft spot for the style and Antonio Galloni’s notes are equally glowing. The dramatically high quality and the appealing release pricing of Redigaffi support the progression illustrated by this chart. If you also consider the tiny production volume, which ranges from 650 to 750 cases produced per annum, it is easy to understand why stock rapidly goes to ground with collectors.  
 
So many vintages stand out in the chart below.  It is worth noting that most of the case prices pre-2008 and projected up from loose bottles as I cannot trace a case price.


 

 
All historic prices shown are Liv-ex’s benchmark price; the lowest price in the market.
 
The chart clearly underlines the fact that release prices for wines such as Redigaffi are keenly priced at the outset and then rise with maturity.  Unsurprisingly, tracing  stock of the 2011 or the 2010 in sealed cases is not easy. How would you pick between the 2010, 2011 or 2012? By any judgement, they are all successful vintages for the estate. To be honest, the estate had been on an enviable run of quality from even before the 2001 vintage. If anything, quality has moved up a notch since 2006 as the vineyard gains in maturity. How many wines might show such a run of consistent quality irrespective of vintage variation, I wonder?
 
The 2012 has only been in the market for a month or so and the £1360 per 12 quoted above is the opening price. Please see below for two recent reviews.
 
2012 Redigaffi, Tua Rita                                
 
96 points, Antonio Galloni (tasted in September 2014)
The 2012 Redigaffi jumps from the glass with explosive dark blue/blackish fruit. Rich, voluptuous and impeccably textured in the glass, the 2012 boasts massive depth and concentration, yet retains tons of freshness. Silky tannins round out a finish laced with melted road tar, herbs and leather. For such a big wine, the Redigaffi is remarkably complex and nuanced. The 2012 was aged in 100% new, thick-staved Darnajou barrels, which are seldom seen in Italy but widely used throughout Napa Valley and elsewhere. In some recent vintages I have slightly preferred the Syrah over the Redigaffi, but in 2012 the wines are both fabulous. Simply put, the 2012 Redigaffi is a stunner.
 
98 points, James Suckling (tasted in October 2014)
Compelling aromas of chili pepper, nuts, beeswax and dark fruits with dried strawberries. Hints of black olives and meat. Full body with extremely thick, silky tannins and a long, flavorful finish. This is layered and so structured, with fabulous length and density. Savory. Chocolate powder at the end. This needs at least three or four years of bottle age. A triumph for the vintage. Pure merlot.