Simon had the opportunity to taste two markedly different rosé Champagnes this week, one at work, one at home. Our offer, below.
The first of the two rosé I tasted this week was a sample of 2006 Pol Roger Rosé, the most recent release from this illustrious house. The second was a non-vintage rosé from a grower called de Sousa, with whom we have worked for many years. The Pol Roger is widely distributed in the market as you might expect, the de Sousa thankfully remains just off the radar.
I tasted the Pol Roger with the team here and it is fair to say that it was well-received, particularly on account of the fact that it was quite a forward style. It is not a vintage for patient cellarage, rather one to take delivery of and broach over the next 2-5 years. The 2006s that I have tasted so far seem broad and expressive in character, with the exception of several leading Blanc de Blancs which seem tauter.
The bottle of de Sousa I opened with friends. Over the last 18 months, we have gradually introduced our clients to de Sousa; the Brut Tradition has become our first recommendation in the non-vintage stakes. We sent out an offer on the vintage wines and the NV Brut Tradition a few months ago but have since been able to add the NV Rosé to the range we carry. For those that do not recall that particular offer, it is worth considering some of the praise heaped on this domaine. Andreas Larsson, a previous winner of Sommelier du Monde, once commented that ‘this single-minded strive for quality comes through very clearly in all their range.’ Peter Liem of champagneguide.net, the highly-rated Champagne review site, commented that ‘It’s no accident that De Sousa is found in many of France’s best restaurants.’
And as background, I will re-publish some comments I made a while back as follows:
The De Sousa family (of Portuguese descent) have been in Avize for three generations and the house of De Sousa & Fils was founded in 1986 by Erick and Michelle. The scale is modest; there are just 9.5 hectares, and production barely exceeds 6,000 cases from their 42 different vineyard parcels across the villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil sur Oger and Oger. Holdings also extend into the Montagne de Reims (Ay and Ambonnay) and the Vallée de la Marne. One notable key to their success is the age of their vines, the vast majority of which were planted more than 45 years ago. Furthermore, they have cultivated their vineyards organically since 1989 and yields from these old vine, organic vineyards are decidedly low. In 1999, De Sousa converted to biodynamic viticulture which – if anything – has lowered yields further. Low yields do not lead to increased quality per se, but it does demonstrate the intent to favour quality over quantity which is typical of every step taken by this forward-thinking family team.
So, two fascinating rosé Champagnes to consider from vastly different estates in terms of profile. Please see my notes below.
Pol Roger Brut Rosé, Extra Cuvée de Reserve 2006
£270 per 6 bottle case in bond
A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay.
Showing a orangey onion skin hue in the glass, the palate is expressive, fruity gradually revealing hints of berry, spice and mineral touches. There is a slight savoury nature to this vintage, with an ample, soft mousse and clean cut finish. This is an immediately appealing style of Pol Rosé, already showing good complexity, with a fuller mid-palate than either of the preceding releases, namely 2004 and 2002. Rich, expressive and into its stride already. Ideally broach in the next 2-5 years.
De Sousa Rosé Tradition Non-Vintage
£150 per 6 bottle case in bond
A blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir all from Grand Cru fruit.
A far lighter, paler, more vibrant hue, the nose here is fresh, floral with discreet, leesy berry nuances. What impresses here is the lightness of touch, this doesn’t lack volume of fruit, but gently expresses rather than asserts. A fragrant rosé from de Sousa which captures hints of summer fruits, mint and subtle creamy brioche notes. I have to confess this punched well above its weight. This is not an anodyne, characterless rosé Champagne, and the purity and freshness really stand out here. Drink over the next 2 years.
Please let us know of your interest.